Rock Lights Installation

Rock lights typically mount in 4--8 locations along the undercarriage -- forward facing at the front bumper corners, rearward at the rear corners, and along the frame rails or rocker panels. Common placement configurations: - 8-pod: 2 front corners, 2 at the front frame, 2 mid-frame/rocker, 2 rear corners - 10-pod: adds 2 more at the center frame or bed corners on trucks Pod mounting options: - U-brackets bolted to frame rails - Adhesive mounts on flat plastic surfaces (less secure, fine for road use but not off-road) - Existing holes and tabs on the frame (many vehicles have unused threaded holes under the vehicle) Before drilling: crawl under the vehicle with all pods and hold each one in the planned position. Check: - Clearance from exhaust pipes and catalytic converter (heat damage) - Clearance from driveshaft and suspension components (contact damage) - That the light aims toward the ground and outward, not at the underbody - Access for routing the wiring without crossing hot or moving parts

Mount pods at each planned location. U-bracket mounts bolt through the frame rail -- use stainless bolts with thread locker. For vehicles with frame rails, M6 or 1/4-20 bolts are common. Drill holes only where necessary -- many frames have existing holes. Once pods are mounted: route the wiring between pods in split conduit. The conduit slides over the wire and protects it from abrasion, rocks, and UV. Secure the conduit every 6--8 inches with stainless zip ties to the frame or body. Keep wiring away from: - Exhaust components (melts the insulation and conduit) - Rotating parts: driveshaft, CV axles (catastrophic if wire gets caught) - Moving suspension: control arms, sway bars (wire will fatigue and break) Route wiring up and into the cab through an existing grommet in the firewall or floor pan. Most vehicles have rubber grommets with unused holes -- use one of these rather than drilling a new penetration.

Rock lights draw 3--15A depending on the pod count and LED brightness. Wire them through a relay to protect the switch and reduce voltage drop. Basic wiring: 1. Fused 12V positive from battery or fuse box → relay terminal 30 2. Relay terminal 87 → lights 3. Relay terminal 85 → switch 4. Relay terminal 86 → ground 5. Switch → ignition-switched power (so lights turn off when the car is off) For RGBW kits with a Bluetooth controller box: The controller replaces the relay. Connect power and ground to the controller per the included wiring diagram. The controller handles the switching and color logic internally. Fuse sizing: Use a fuse 20--25% above the lights' total draw. For 8 pods drawing 1.5A each (12A total), a 15A fuse is appropriate. Ground: Run a dedicated ground wire from the controller or relay to a chassis ground point (body bolt, not painted surface). Poor ground is the most common cause of flickering or dim rock lights.

For manual switch: Run the switch wire from the relay's trigger terminal (terminal 85) to a switch in the cab. Good locations: below the steering column, on a switch panel, or in the dash panel if you have an open slot. Weatherproof switches: If the switch is in a location that might get wet (center console in a Jeep without doors, truck with broken window seals), use a waterproof toggle switch rated for outdoor use. For Bluetooth/app controller: Download the manufacturer's app before starting. The controller typically creates its own Bluetooth connection. Pair it in the app and confirm the lights respond to commands. Most apps let you create color patterns, set brightness, and sync colors to music. For 12V switch panel integration: If you already have a Trigger or sPOD switch panel installed, connect the rock light relay to an available channel. Clean integration beats a one-off switch on the dash.

Turn on the rock lights before the shakedown. Walk around the vehicle at night and confirm: - All pods illuminate - No pods aim at your eyes (blinding you from other vehicles) - Pods illuminate the ground and obstacles beneath the vehicle - No wiring is visible or dragging Aim adjustment: Most pods have a swivel bracket allowing 360° rotation. Aim pods outward and downward -- you want to see rocks, ruts, and obstacles at the side of the vehicle, not illuminate the undercarriage itself. Shakedown drive: Take the vehicle over a rough surface (driveway with speed bumps, dirt road). Stop and recheck all wiring -- vibration finds any loose connections. Confirm conduit hasn't shifted off any wires. After off-road use: Check pods and wiring for damage after the first few trail runs. Rocks occasionally clip pods or conduit. Better to find damage in the driveway than at night on the trail.