Washer & Dryer Installation

Both a washer and dryer require specific utility connections that may not exist in your laundry location. Verify before the appliances arrive: Washer requirements: - Hot and cold water supply with shutoff valves and hose bib connections (standard 3/4" garden hose threads) - Drain standpipe or laundry sink (36" tall standpipe minimum height for most washers -- drain hose must go in, not seal) - 120V, 20A dedicated circuit with ground Electric dryer requirements: - 240V, 30A circuit with a NEMA 14-30 (4-prong) outlet -- this is the modern standard. Older homes may have a NEMA 10-30 (3-prong). These are not interchangeable without adapting the dryer cord. - Exterior vent through the wall or floor to outside the building Gas dryer requirements: - Gas supply with shutoff valve and flexible connector - 120V outlet for controls and drum motor - Exterior vent (same as electric) Dryer duct exterior: Confirm the exterior vent hood is in place, opens freely (damper not stuck), and isn't obstructed. A blocked exterior vent makes a new dryer behave like a failing dryer.

This is the most commonly forgotten step and causes expensive damage. Front-loading washers have 3--4 shipping bolts that lock the drum for transport. These are large bolts typically on the back of the machine, sometimes covered by plastic plugs. How to find them: Look on the back of the washer for bolts with red or yellow marking, often labeled "REMOVE BEFORE USE." The manual has a diagram showing their location. Removing them: The bolts pull straight out (or unscrew). Save them -- you'll need them if you ever move the appliance again. Insert the provided plastic plugs into the holes. What happens if you don't: During the spin cycle, the drum contacts the machine frame, causing catastrophic vibration and potentially damaging the drum bearings, suspension, and frame. This sounds like the machine is exploding and is not covered by warranty because it's user error. Top-loading washers: Most do not have shipping bolts. Check the manual for your specific model.

Water supply connection: 1. Ensure shutoff valves are closed 2. Connect hot and cold supply hoses to the wall fittings -- note which is hot and which is cold (hot on left, cold on right when facing the wall fitting) 3. Connect the other end to the washer: most washers label the hot and cold inlet connections 4. Hand-tighten both fittings, then 1/2 turn with a wrench -- do not overtighten (the rubber washer seals the connection; excessive force cracks the fitting body) 5. Open shutoff valves and check for leaks at all four connection points before moving to the next step Drain hose: - Insert the drain hose into the standpipe -- the hose end should go 8--10 inches into the pipe, not be sealed - Use the plastic hook or strap included with the washer to prevent the drain hose from pulling out during drain cycles - If draining to a utility sink: secure the hose over the sink edge with a strap or hook Do not kink the drain hose: A kinked drain hose causes the washer to trip an error code on every cycle.

Dryer vent connection: 1. Clean the existing duct from the wall connection to the exterior before connecting anything new 2. Connect semi-rigid aluminum duct from the dryer outlet to the wall vent outlet 3. Secure with a hose clamp at each end 4. Keep the duct run as short as possible with minimal bends -- each 90-degree bend is equivalent to 5 feet of straight duct in terms of airflow restriction 5. Maximum total duct length: most dryers specify 25--35 feet of equivalent length -- check your model's manual Electric dryer cord: - Dryers ship without cords -- you purchase the cord separately for your outlet type - NEMA 14-30 (4-prong modern): connect green to ground, white to center neutral, black and red to the two outer terminals - Follow the wiring diagram in the dryer's installation manual exactly Gas dryer: - Connect the flexible gas connector to the dryer gas inlet and the wall shutoff valve - Use gas-rated pipe dope or gas-compatible Teflon tape - Turn on the gas supply slowly and test all connections with soapy water -- bubbles indicate a leak - Plug in the 120V electrical cord for controls

Washer leveling: - All four feet must be in contact with the floor - Check level front-to-back and side-to-side - Adjust leveling feet (turn clockwise to raise, counterclockwise to lower) - Tighten the lock nut on each foot after adjustment - Anti-vibration pads under the feet reduce noise on hard floors Dryer leveling: Same process -- all four feet on the floor, level in both directions, lock nuts tightened. Stacked units: If stacking the dryer on the washer, use the manufacturer's stacking kit -- a slide-out shelf is typically included. Do not stack without the kit. The kit includes the brackets that prevent the dryer from falling. Test cycle sequence: 1. Washer: run a rinse cycle with the lid/door closed. Watch for leaks at the supply hoses. Confirm the drain is flowing correctly. At spin cycle, confirm the machine stays in place without excessive walking. 2. Dryer: run on high heat for 10 minutes. Go outside and confirm the vent exhaust is flowing (hold your hand near the exterior vent cover). Feel the exhaust air -- it should be warm and moving well. Check that the vent cover flap opens during operation.